Napa winemaker 1st in US to produce wine from rare Japanese grape

Napa winemaker becomes first in US to grow rare Japanese Koshu grape

Winemaker Michelle Sakazaki is the first in the U.S. to grow and produce Koshu wine, made from an ancient pink grape from Japan. Through her label, Kazumi Wines, she’s introducing this ancient varietal to American wine culture, blending her Japanese heritage with Napa Valley craftsmanship.

NAPA, Calif. - In a region known for its bold cabernets and world-class chardonnays, one winemaker is carving out a unique space - with a grape rarely seen outside of Japan.

Michelle Sakazaki is the founder of Kazumi Wines, the first winery in the United States to grow and produce Koshu, an ancient pink grape native to Japan. 

Her journey began in 2018 in her parents' Napa backyard, where the first experimental vines took root.

The grape, long cultivated in Japan’s Yamanashi region, is known for its crisp acidity and delicate flavor profile. Sakazaki says the Napa terroir brings something new to the variety.

"Koshu - what’s beautiful about it is it has this really nice acidity, bright," Sakazaki said. "What’s great about the Napa Valley Koshu is you can taste the sun - you get a little bit more tropical fruit, ripeness, compared to the Japanese version."

The Birth of Kazumi Wines

The idea to plant Koshu came after the 2017 Napa wildfires destroyed her family's vineyard. Her father, Jack Sakazaki, discovered Koshu canes at UC Davis' Foundation Plant Services, a nursery that specializes in certified grapevine material.

"When my dad heard that, he got really excited and he ran up there and he purchased all the canes available up there, and he decided to replant all his vineyard into Koshu," Sakazaki said.

Today, she grows Koshu grapes in South Napa and the Oak Knoll District. 

About half of Kazumi Wines’ production is exported to Japan, where it’s served in Michelin-starred restaurants in Tokyo and Kyoto. 

The rest is finding its way into top-tier restaurants in the U.S., including Gramercy Tavern and Jean-Georges in New York.

A bridge between two worlds

"I feel very honored that I get to be part of this - that I get to introduce this ancient varietal from Japan to consumers in the U.S. and hopefully beyond," Sakazaki said. "I feel a sense of pride. I feel like the Napa Valley Koshu is very similar to me - I’m Japanese American. We have our roots in Japan, but we're made, grown here in the U.S."

Sakazaki says Koshu pairs beautifully with Japanese food and seafood, but its versatility is part of its charm.

"It’s a Japanese varietal and when you taste it you realize it does go so well with Japanese food, and seafood, because it’s so crisp, and refreshing, but it has a really beautiful umami character to it," she said.

She also acknowledges the broader impact of her work in wine country. 

"We are underrepresented. You do see more female winemakers and owners, but to be Asian female owner, it makes me feel proud that I’m one of the few," she said.

Kazumi Wines also produces a sparkling Koshu.

Sakazaki hopes to expand to other states and into European markets in the near future.